Installazione Connect Nav Alfa 147 Jtdm

Installazione Connect Nav Alfa 147 Jtdm

I know there is already a connect install thread out there but the OP made it sound very difficult to do and could be off putting for some people and I don't think it needs to be as it is actually a simple enough 'operation' to perform. This guide assumes you have already mounted your GPS / GSM anetnna and microphone. Please be aware additional steps may be required for BOSE installations - as detailed below Okay, so you're going to need a Connect Nav unit.

Installazione Connect Nav Alfa 147 Jtdm

Ideally you need this to come with the factory mounting cage, GSM telephone card and satnav CDs. A Connect Nav does have a 'Master Code' but you can defeat / avoid this if you don't have it. See below for more detail.

Installazione Connect Nav Alfa 147 Motor. Navigatore: come montarlo sulla Fiat Panda. Quando una volta le famiglie si preparavano per lunghi viaggi in auto.

Nov 9, 2015 - Ne uporabljajte olja ali masti za navoje. Pozor - upoštevajte. U Pin or Threaded Connector Pins or Terminals are protected with special material treatment to resist corrosion and ensure reliable power connection. ALFA ROMEO 6 33 75 90 145 146 147 155 156 156 / Sportwagon (932). 2.5 TD 1.8 TD. How to install Connect Nav+ on Alfa Romeo GT / 147. How to replace rear brake discs and rear brake pads on ALFA ROMEO 147 TUTORIAL AUTODOC.

Tool wise you will need a small hacksaw or saw blade, possibly a Stanley knife too and a Philips screw driver. A small amount of wiring is required also but this could be achieved with slot locks if required. Radio removal keys (or equivalent tool are also useful). Step 1 - removal of old stuff This assumes your car is still factory with the blaupunkt 937 unit - aftermarket head units may require different keys / devices to remove them.

Taking your removal keys (I used two very small screw drivers and did one side at a time) poke them through the holes in the sides of the headunit about two inches in, firmly but not too hard, pull outwards on the removal tool towards the doors on the car and pull forward. Once your head unit is far enough forward to get your fingers behind, release and remove the removal tools. Pull your old head unit forward, but don't run off with it just yet. Ensure you remove any CDs, cassettes whatever from your existing head unit then remove the plugs from the back. The plugs conform to a basic ISO stereo plug protocol. Block A (white on my car) - you can tell this as it has less wires than the other block - is the power block. Block B has all 8 pins in use as this is the speaker block.

There is also a yellow / green / blue mini plug trio. Solsuite 98 3 5 Serial Crack Idm. Yellow has the BOSE signal wire [where fitted], blue is for CD changer [where fitted] and green I believe is for steering controls. Unplug and remove the old stereo. Coin tray - reach into the hole left by the factory stereo and curl your fingers over the back of the plastic coin tray unit. Give you short sharp firm tug (be strong) on the unit and it will just pop out.

Step Two - Making your hole You will see in the images below that the factory unit has a plastic support bar between the bottom of it and the top of the coin tray - obviously this has to come out. I will mark it clearly on the image for better understanding but if you look at the outer edge / frame of the hole you can see at either end of the supporting bar there is a cut out hole. The rear of the bar extends across / through this hole but it needs to be completely clear as the satnav has a facia mounting point that sticks through these holes. So, cut and remove the support bar.

Step Three - Cage install Offer the cage up to the hole to see that you've removed enough of the support bar for it to fit. You can see in the front shot that I've not removed enough material between the top and bottom facia mounts to start with - I only found out it fouled when I tried to insert the unit. Softros Lan Messenger Serial Key. You can see there are 7 mounts in total that I counted - 4 on front, 2 on top and 1 right at the back at the bottom. You want to use as many of these as you can but provided you can get the 4 front ones in it will hold.

This is where you need the panel clips as only the top two holes actually had the nuts / clips to screw into. The spare clips I had were too big so I bolted the two front lower points in. Screw in the stereo cage.

Step 4 - the wiring (almost there) The factory unit triggers with the ignition via the canbus system I believe where the connect nav needs a switched 12v live to trigger it to come on with the ignition. This is done via pin A4 - that is pin 4 on the power block described above. Very early vehicles (such as mine) may not have this wire in the loom, so you need to add it. If this wire is in the loom - skip this step As the pin was missing on my car I had to sources one, so I removed a pin from an old stereo wiring harness I had and added some wire on it. The nearest switched live I could find was for the cigarette lighter.

In the drivers footwell if you remove the carpet side panel from the centre console, on the end of the centre console clipped to it is the wiring plug for the centre console - the white wire on mine was 12v switched, so I have tapped off this. Note: If you do not have the code for your unit you may wish to remove the 12v switched feed from your unit - see below for more details. VEHICLES WITH BOSE ONLY again you need to tell your connect nav that your car has BOSE by supplying 12v to the BOOSTER pin (pin 1 or 2 I think). You can pick any 12v source for this and again add to the block. As my car was being retrofitted with BOSE at the same time this wasn't installed - this may not be required on your vehicle. Step 5 - TESTING You're essentially done - plug her up! Insert the mini ISO colour blocks, followed by the B block for speaker wires.

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